SOFIA. MY WONDERLAND.
USA is no longer the land of unlimited possibilities. Bulgaria is. Here you can do anything and become everything that you wish. Because it’s affordable, chilled and literally no rules apply. Being a place awash with great food, wild clubbing scene and centuries of unique culture, the capital – Sofia, is one of Bulgarian’s most fascinating destinations. It is quirky and cool, yet it’s a place to luxuriate in the best of the ‘Bulgarian dream’.
Sofia is also my hometown. So in my eyes I see it as my little sunny wonderland: always welcoming, always ready for me. In this article you will see Sofia through my eyes: the eyes of a girl that after living abroad for the last couple of years, today feels like and expat in her own wonderland. You will also see me through the eyes of my creative buddy Maria S. who accompanied me in the hot summer day, taking some amazing photos, inspiring me, my soul and my most Marilyn Monroe self.
Young and Wild.
Sofia is a city with an ever-growing club scene and lively nightlife worth experiencing. And believe me, Bulgarians know how to drink and party hard! If you feel like having a chilled night, drinking good cocktails and chatting with friends, ONE MORE BAR is the place. With its milky pink facade and charming little garden, ONE MORE BAR is a place where you make great friends and share unforgettable memories. By The Way is one of Sofia’s iconic bars. If you think about it the place is nothing special: a small bar on one of the busiest and dustiest crossroads in town. Yet, its unique spirit is what makes it so special. By The Way is not just a bar: it’s a hub, a community, a second home for its visitors. Memento is also worth visiting, especially in the cold winter (the brand has a few bars around the city, always offering great locations and setting). Memento has the best selection of exquisite teas and some of the best coffee in town. If you happen to be in Sofia during the hot summer try Memento’s iconic cocktails Aperamento and Aperamento Gold. Culture Beat is your place for after 12 am! This bizarre, charmingly off club for electronic music brings a breath of fresh air to the grim communist style building of the National Palace of Culture.
Feel the art.
The new gallery Kvadrat 500 gets all the attention, but the original National Art Gallery, housed in an elegant 19th-century palace, offers a more exclusive and vibrant brief when it comes to Bulgarian modern and contemporary art. However, Kvadrat 500 is also a must see. The new upgraded venue offers a rich collection of Bulgarian art, as well as foreign art from Africa, Asia and Europe. In terms of creative commercial art galleries I highly recommend Rakursi. It offers the best of Bulgarian contemporary art in case you are interested in buying. From September onwards you’ll be able to visit the latest addition to Sofia’s art scene: Muzeiko. The museum, sponsored by the US government, will be focused on art and education-related activities and exhibitions for children and families. So if you are around Sofia in September and if you have a child, or you are a child or you have been one once (we all have) go ahead and indulge in a carefree afternoon in Muzeiko.
Where to shop.
Forget about the malls. Nothing new and attractive about them. Tzar Asen Street and the small streets around it are the creative fashion districts of Sofia. There you can find small charming boutiques that offer handmade clothes, shoes and jewellery by Bulgarian designers. Don’t miss the Paradise Garage Boutique from where in fact I bought the skirt I am wearing on the photos.
Go Local.
Now there is nothing alluring about standing shivering in the freezer section at the local supermarket with your eyes glazing over from the halogen lights and the neon-colored cardboard boxes containing substances claimed to be food products. I much more prefer going to local farmer’s market, enjoying the open-air setting and talking with local farmers about the size and the taste of this year’s harvest of cherries for instance. And then I walk away with a bag full of delicious locally produced goodies. The farmer’s market experience is not only good for your body and health, but also for your soul and balanced spirit. Luckily weekly in Sofia there are two different farmers markets that offer the best local fruit and vegetables, cheese, yogurt, pastries, beer and wine, even ice cream during the summer. One is on Wednesdays at the Ivan Vazov Market and the other one is on Saturdays at the Roman Wall.
Where to stay.
Here are my suggestions of hotels in Sofia:
All the three of them are at the ideal city centre, hence very convenient, and offer exquisite luxury experience.
Get Creative.
The street art in Sofia is usually quite chaotic and very few pieces can be actually considered art. Tzar Ivan Shishman Street, however is a different story. In fact Shishman is the only area in Sofia where the street art can be cherished in an organized, harmonious way and actually some great pieces can be seen. Just look around and you will see hidden gems: beautiful graffiti on the electric street boxes or on the wall rights next to you. Shishman is an interesting area: the new (the graffiti) and the old (communist style buildings and weird Eastern European features and details) co-exist in one creative soul, melting together in an alluring ambiance. Stop by Bar Bilkova for a drink or two and enjoy the company of some creative, colourful young people.
Indulge into the delish!
Pastorant is the one place in Sofia where you actually feel like being in some quiet carefree part of France. Yet, no French is spoken here and the menu features mainly Italian dishes. If you happen to go during the summer book a table in the garden.
A must try: Baked goat cheese with honey and figs.
Tavan offers one of the most breathtaking views in the city, looking over Vitosha Mountain on one side and over Sofia’s city centre on the other.
A must try: Grilled octopus
It always feels like home in Made in home. The furniture, the air and dishes: it all smells like Sunday at your grandmother’s house.
A must try: Zucchini ‘meatballs’
Now, I have a confession to make: I like big ice creams and I cannot lie! I have tried hundreds of types of ice cream in locations all around the world: from Cuba and Peru, to the USA, Spain, Italy and many many more. Yet the best ice cream in the world, at least for me, is in Sofia, and more precisely at Confetti. The place offers an impressive selection of gelatos (especially in the summer), but it also has great salads and pizzas. Moreover, Confetti teases the senses with some exquisite cakes and pastries. I must try!
A must try: Raspberry-basil gelato and cheesecake gelato
Sun-Moon is the best healthy place in Sofia. Period. Being a bakery and a restaurant in one, Sun-Moon has all that a health-freak needs: freshly baked breads and pastries, vegan and vegetarian salads and organic homemade drinks and dips.
A must try: Stuffed avocado salad
Photo credit: Mariya S.
Iveta's Musings 